Grow Cucumbers

Be sure that you grow cucumbers in both your spring and your fall gardens if you live in a warm climate like Texas. There is almost always plenty of time in the fall before a frost.

Have you ever bitten into a crisp, fresh cucumber from your own garden and thought, "Why didn't I start doing this sooner?" Growing cucumbers from seed in your garden in early spring and again in the fall garden is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have as a home gardener. There's something magical about watching those tiny seeds transform into vigorous vines loaded with crunchy, delicious cucumbers.

I remember my first attempt at growing cucumbers. I planted them way too close together, didn't give them anything to climb on, and wondered why my harvest was disappointing. But once I learned the basics, everything changed. Now, I'm here to share what I've learned so you can skip the mistakes and go straight to the success.

David's Garden Seeds has Asian, gherkin, pickling, and slicing cucumber seeds here.

Grow Cucumbers - 10/27-11/2/2025

Grow Cucumbers from Seed: Your Complete Guide to Spring and Fall Success

Spacemaster is compact for a pot but grows a lot of big cucumbers.

Before we dig into the dirt, let's talk about why you'd want to grow cucumbers from seed in your garden in early spring and again in the fall garden. Cucumbers are warm-season crops that thrive in two distinct growing windows in most American gardens. Spring planting gives you summer harvests, while fall planting extends your cucumber season well into autumn.

The beauty of cucumbers is their versatility. You can slice them for salads, pickle them for winter enjoyment, add them to sandwiches, blend them into refreshing drinks, or simply munch on them as a healthy snack. Plus, they're incredibly productive—a few plants can keep your family supplied all season long.

Grow Cucumbers - Understanding Cucumber Varieties

Spacemaster cucumbers.

Not all cucumbers are created equal, and choosing the right variety makes all the difference. At David's Garden Seeds, you'll find four main types of cucumbers: gherkins, Asian cucumbers, pickling cucumbers, and slicing cucumbers. Each has its own personality and purpose in your garden and kitchen.

Gherkins are those adorable little cucumbers you see in jars at the store. They're typically harvested when they're just 1-2 inches long, making them perfect for tiny pickles. If you love those crunchy, tangy cornichons served with charcuterie boards, gherkins are your go-to variety.

Asian cucumbers are long, slender, and incredibly crisp. They often have thin skins that don't need peeling and a sweet, mild flavor. These are fantastic for fresh eating, Asian-inspired dishes, and salads. They're also burpless, which means they're easier on your digestive system.

Pickling cucumbers are the workhorses of the cucumber world. They're shorter and blockier than slicing types, with bumpy skin and firm flesh that holds up beautifully in brine. Growing pickling cucumbers is essential if you want to make your own dill pickles, bread and butter pickles, or any other preserved cucumber treats.

Slicing cucumbers are what most people picture when they think of cucumbers. They're longer, smoother, and perfect for fresh eating. When you grow slicing cucumbers, you're setting yourself up for endless salads, cucumber water, and those classic cucumber sandwiches.

Grow Cucumbers - Preparing Your Soil for Success

This is our English cucumber, the Beit Alpha. You know--the ones at the grocery store wrapped in cellophane. Now you can grow them yourself and skip the cellophane.

Let's get our hands dirty and talk about soil preparation. Cucumbers are heavy feeders, which means they need nutrient-rich soil to produce those abundant harvests you're dreaming about. The good news is that preparing your soil doesn't have to be complicated.

Start by choosing a spot that gets full sun—at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Cucumbers love warmth and light, and they'll reward you with better growth and more fruit when they're basking in the sun. I learned this the hard way when I planted mine in partial shade and got scraggly vines with few cucumbers.

Your soil should drain well but retain moisture. Cucumbers hate wet feet but also don't want to dry out completely. The ideal soil is loose, rich, and slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. If you're not sure about your soil's pH, grab a simple test kit from your local garden center.

Before planting, work plenty of organic matter into your soil. I like to add 2-3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure and mix it into the top 6-8 inches of soil. This improves drainage, adds nutrients, and creates the fluffy texture cucumber roots love to explore.

If you're dealing with heavy clay soil like I have in part of my garden, consider building raised beds. They warm up faster in spring, drain better, and give you complete control over your soil quality. Plus, they're easier on your back when it's time to plant and harvest.

For fall planting, your soil preparation is similar, but you might need to refresh the nutrients if you've already grown a crop in that spot during the summer. Add a fresh layer of compost and consider a balanced organic fertilizer to replenish what earlier crops took out.

Grow Cucumbers - Timing Your Plantings

The Asian Suyo Long is my personal favorite because it is thin, mild, and has wonderful texture.

Timing is everything when you grow cucumbers from seed in your garden in early spring and again in the fall garden. Plant too early, and cold soil will rot your seeds. Plant too late, and you'll miss your optimal growing window.

For spring planting, wait until all danger of frost has passed and your soil temperature reaches at least 60°F, though 70°F is even better. In most areas, this means planting 1-2 weeks after your last expected frost date. I always stick my finger in the soil—if it feels cold, I wait another week.

You can get a jump on the season by starting seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before your last frost date. Use biodegradable pots that you can plant directly in the ground, because cucumbers hate having their roots disturbed. I learned this after killing several transplants by trying to remove them from plastic pots.

For fall planting, count backward from your first expected fall frost date. Most cucumber varieties need 50-70 days to maturity, so plant them 10-12 weeks before frost. This gives them time to produce before cold weather shuts them down.

In warmer climates, you might be able to grow cucumbers year-round or have even longer planting windows. Lucky you! In cooler areas, make the most of your two planting opportunities to enjoy fresh cucumbers for as much of the year as possible.

Grow Cucumbers - Planting Your Cucumber Seeds

Plant Lemon Pickling cucumbers for something different. Aren't they pretty?

Now comes the fun part—actually planting those seeds from David's Garden Seeds. Whether you're growing pickling cucumbers, slicing varieties, gherkins, or Asian types, the planting process is similar.

Create small hills or mounds of soil about 6 inches high and 12 inches across. Space these hills 3-4 feet apart to give your cucumber vines room to spread. The hills improve drainage and warm up faster than flat ground, giving your seeds a better start.

Plant 4-6 seeds per hill, spacing them evenly around the mound. Push each seed about 1 inch deep into the soil. I like to plant extra seeds as insurance—you can always thin them later, but you can't add more if none germinate.

If you're planting in rows instead of hills, space your seeds 6 inches apart in rows that are 5-6 feet apart. This works well if you're planning to let your cucumbers sprawl on the ground rather than climb.

After planting, water gently but thoroughly. You want the soil moist but not waterlogged. I use a watering can with a rose attachment to create a gentle shower that won't wash away the seeds or compact the soil.

Cover the planted area with a light layer of mulch to help retain moisture and keep the soil warm. I avoid putting mulch directly over the seeds until they sprout, but I do mulch around the hills.

Germination usually takes 3-10 days, depending on soil temperature. Warmer soil means faster germination. Be patient—I know it's hard! Check daily for those exciting first sprouts breaking through the soil.

Once your seedlings have their first true leaves (the second set of leaves that appear), thin them to the 2-3 strongest plants per hill. It feels cruel to pull out perfectly good seedlings, but overcrowding leads to disease and poor production.

Grow Cucumbers - Watering and Fertilizing

This is the Diva Slicing cucumber. It is our most popular slicing even though it is a hybrid. It has great flavor and disease resistance.

Cucumbers are thirsty plants, and consistent watering is crucial for growing great cucumbers. Irregular watering leads to bitter fruit, misshapen cucumbers, and blossom end rot. Trust me, you don't want any of those problems.

Water deeply once or twice a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water total. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. I stick my finger into the soil—if it's dry an inch down, it's time to water.

Morning watering is best because it gives the leaves time to dry before evening, reducing disease risk. Avoid overhead watering if possible, as wet leaves invite fungal problems. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal for cucumbers.

Mulch is your friend when it comes to maintaining soil moisture. Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch around your plants once they're established. This keeps the soil evenly moist, suppresses weeds, and keeps the cucumbers clean when they rest on the ground.

As for fertilizing, cucumbers need regular feeding to support their vigorous growth and heavy fruit production. Start with that nutrient-rich soil we talked about earlier, then supplement throughout the growing season.

When your plants start flowering, begin feeding them every 2-3 weeks with a balanced fertilizer or compost tea. I like to use a fish emulsion or seaweed-based fertilizer diluted according to package directions. These organic options feed the plants while improving soil health.

Watch your plants for signs of nutrient deficiency. Yellow leaves might indicate nitrogen deficiency, while poor fruit development could mean they need more phosphorus and potassium. Adjust your fertilizing accordingly.

Grow Cucumbers - Supporting Your Cucumber Plants

This is the Mexican Sour Gherkin, one of my favorites to grow, also known as the Cucamelon.

Here's a game-changer I wish I'd known from the start: growing cucumbers vertically saves space, improves air circulation, and makes harvesting so much easier. Plus, your cucumbers will be straighter and cleaner when they're not lying on the ground.

Install trellises, cages, or other supports at planting time or shortly after, before the vines get too large. I made the mistake once of trying to trellis established plants and ended up damaging several vines. Learn from my error!

A simple trellis can be made from wooden stakes and strong twine or netting. Make it at least 5-6 feet tall for vining varieties. Some cucumber varieties are bush types that don't need support, so check your seed packet.

As your cucumber vines grow, gently guide them toward the support structure. They'll naturally want to climb using their tendrils. You might need to loosely tie the main stem to the support initially to get them started.

Growing cucumbers vertically is especially important when you grow slicing cucumbers, as it helps them develop that nice straight shape. It also works beautifully for Asian cucumbers and even pickling types.

Grow Cucumbers - Caring for Your Cucumber Plants

This is the Asian Itachi cucumber. Yes, it is white. In fact, we sell several white cucumbers.

Once your cucumbers are growing, they need regular attention to stay healthy and productive. The good news is that cucumbers aren't particularly fussy if you give them the basics they need.

Check your plants daily for pests. Cucumber beetles are the main villain in most gardens—they're yellow with black stripes or spots, and they can devastate young plants. Hand-pick them in the morning when they're sluggish, or use row covers to protect young plants.

Aphids, spider mites, and squash bugs might also visit your cucumber patch. A strong spray of water often dislodges aphids, while insecticidal soap handles most other pests. I try to avoid harsh chemicals and rely on beneficial insects like ladybugs to help control pests.

Watch for diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and bacterial wilt. Good air circulation, proper spacing, and avoiding wet foliage go a long way toward preventing these problems. If disease does strike, remove affected leaves promptly.

Keep the area around your plants weed-free. Weeds compete for nutrients and water, and they can harbor pests and diseases. That mulch layer helps tremendously with weed control, but you'll still need to pull any weeds that pop up.

Pinching off the growing tips of your cucumber vines when they reach the top of your trellis encourages them to put energy into fruit production rather than more vine growth. This is optional but can improve yields.

Grow Cucumbers - Understanding Pollination

This is the Armenian Yard Long slicing cucumber. They grow 2 to 3 feet long.

Here's something that confused me when I first started growing cucumbers: why were there flowers but no fruit? The answer lies in understanding cucumber pollination.

Cucumbers have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. The male flowers appear first and don't produce fruit—they just provide pollen. Female flowers have a tiny cucumber-shaped swelling at the base and need to be pollinated to develop into full-sized cucumbers.

Bees and other pollinators do most of the work, transferring pollen from male to female flowers. This is why avoiding pesticides and planting pollinator-friendly flowers nearby is so important. No pollinators means no cucumbers!

If you're not seeing many pollinators in your garden, you can hand-pollinate. Simply pick a male flower, remove the petals, and gently brush the pollen-covered center against the center of a female flower. I've done this on cool mornings when bees aren't active, and it works great.

Grow Cucumbers - Harvesting Your Cucumbers

Grow cucumbers for pickles. These are the Boston pickling cucumbers.

The moment you've been waiting for—harvest time! Knowing when and how to pick your cucumbers makes all the difference in quality and continued production.

For slicing cucumbers, harvest when they're 6-8 inches long and have a uniform dark green color. Don't let them get too large or they'll become seedy and bitter. When growing pickling cucumbers, pick them at your desired size—smaller for gherkins (1-2 inches), medium for dills (3-4 inches), or larger for chunky pickles (4-6 inches).

Asian cucumbers can grow quite long—12-15 inches—without becoming bitter. Harvest them when they're slender and firm. Gherkins should be picked daily when they reach 1-2 inches for the best texture.

Use scissors or pruning shears to cut cucumbers from the vine, leaving a short stem attached. Pulling or twisting can damage the vine and reduce future production. Check your plants every day or two during peak production—cucumbers can hide under leaves and grow huge overnight!

The more you harvest, the more your plants will produce. Leaving overripe cucumbers on the vine signals the plant to stop producing new fruit. Keep picking, even if you're giving cucumbers away to neighbors!

After harvesting, store cucumbers in the refrigerator where they'll keep for about a week. For pickling cucumbers, use them within a day or two of harvest for the crispest pickles.

Slicing cucumbers are perfect for fresh eating, adding to salads, making cucumber water, or creating cool summer soups. And remember, when you're ready to grow cucumbers from seed in your garden in early spring and again in the fall garden, David's Garden Seeds® has all the varieties you need to make your cucumber-growing dreams come true. Happy gardening!

The Katrina slicing cucumber is a hybrid that is heat tolerant.

Monday, October 27, 2025

Good Monday morning. It is a new week again. They sure go by fast, don't they? This week, we are talking about how to grow cucumbers, one of our most popular vegetable seeds. Study this article now and choose and order your cucumber seeds because when spring comes, they will go fast.

This morning, we have someone coming by to help with replacing and putting up some new fencing. We do need help. There is just too much to do with the business for us to do everything else as well.

A bit of excitement--tiny baby snapdragon plants are coming up in the flowerbeds outside of the farm store! Yay! Also, there is mist in the air so everything is getting a bit wet which is what we need. There was no fog but there was a fog advisory that ended at 9am. Now that it is over, the fog appears to be moving in...

Tuesday, October 28, 2025

Wednesday, October 29, 2025

Thursday, October 30, 2025

Friday, October 31, 2025

Saturday, November 1, 2025

Sunday, November 2, 2025

Return from Grow Cucumbers to Year Seven Of Farm Life

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