Fall is a wonderful time of year to grow bush beans in the garden. They will be sweet and delicious when you pick them off of the plant.
There's something magical about walking into your garden and picking fresh green beans for dinner. If you've never experienced this simple pleasure, you're in for a real treat. Growing bush beans in your fall garden is one of the easiest and most rewarding things you can do as a gardener.
You might think that fall is only for harvesting, but it's actually a perfect time to plant bush beans. The cooler temperatures mean fewer pests, and beans absolutely love the mild weather that fall brings. Plus, you'll have fresh vegetables when many other gardeners have already packed it in for the season.
I remember my first fall bean harvest. I had planted them almost as an afterthought in late summer, and by October, I was picking handfuls of crisp, tender beans every other day. My family couldn't believe how sweet and delicious they were compared to store-bought beans.
Bush beans are different from pole beans because they don't need any support structures. They grow as compact, bushy plants that typically reach about two feet tall. This makes them perfect for small gardens, containers, or anywhere you have a sunny spot.
The beauty of bush beans is that they're incredibly prolific. From just a small planting, you can harvest hundreds of beans to feed your family throughout the fall. They keep producing for several weeks, giving you multiple harvests from a single planting.
Before we dive into the details, let me tell you that if you can plant a seed and water it, you can grow bush beans. They're forgiving, fast-growing, and don't require any special skills or equipment. Even if you're a complete beginner, you'll succeed with bush beans.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from planting those first seeds to enjoying your harvest. We'll cover seven essential parts: choosing and planting seeds, watering, fertilizing, general care, pest management, harvesting, and what to do with your beans once you've picked them.
Let's start at the beginning with selecting and planting your seeds. David's Garden Seeds® offers excellent quality bean seeds that are perfect for fall planting. When you're choosing varieties, look for ones that mature quickly, typically in 50-60 days.
Timing is everything when you grow bush beans in the fall garden. You need to count backward from your first expected frost date. If your first frost typically arrives in mid-November, you'll want to plant your beans by late August or early September at the latest.
Check your seed packet for the "days to maturity" information. Add about 10-14 days to that number for fall planting, since cooler temperatures slow growth slightly. This gives you your planting deadline.
Bush beans need warm soil to germinate properly. The soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit, though they prefer 70 to 80 degrees. You can check this with an inexpensive soil thermometer from any garden center.
Choose a spot in your garden that gets full sun, meaning at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Beans are sun-lovers, and they'll produce much better in a bright location. I learned this the hard way when I tried planting them in partial shade and got half the harvest.
Your soil should drain well because beans don't like wet feet. If you have heavy clay soil, consider adding some compost to improve drainage. The good news is that beans aren't picky about soil fertility since they actually add nitrogen to the soil as they grow.
Before planting, prepare your garden bed by removing any weeds and loosening the soil to a depth of about six inches. You don't need to dig deeply because bean roots are relatively shallow.
Now here's a tip that many gardeners don't know: avoid working with your bean seeds when the plants or soil are wet. Beans are susceptible to bacterial diseases that spread easily in wet conditions.
When you're ready to plant, create rows or furrows no more than one half inch deep. If you're planting multiple rows, space them about 18-24 inches apart. This gives you room to walk between rows for watering and harvesting.
Take your bean seeds and plant them about 2 to 3 inches apart in the row. Yes, this seems close, but you can always thin them later if needed. I like to plant them a bit thick because not every seed will germinate, especially in fall when conditions aren't perfect.
Cover the seeds with soil and gently firm it down with your hand. You want good seed-to-soil contact for the best germination. Don't pack it down too hard, though, or the seedlings will struggle to push through.
Water the row gently but thoroughly right after planting. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged. Think of it like a wrung-out sponge – damp throughout but not dripping.
Here's something I always do: mark your rows with labels or stakes. It's easy to forget what you planted where, and you don't want to accidentally disturb the area before the seeds sprout.
Bean seeds typically germinate in 7 to 14 days, depending on soil temperature. In fall, when the soil is still warm from summer, you might see sprouts in as little as five days. Be patient and keep the soil moist during this period.
Once your seedlings emerge and develop their first true leaves (not the seed leaves, but the next set), you can thin them if they're too crowded. Space them to about 4 to 6 inches apart for optimal growth.
Watering is crucial when you grow green beans, but it's also where many gardeners make mistakes. The key is consistency. Beans like even moisture throughout their growing season, not feast or famine.
During the germination period, keep the soil consistently moist. Check it daily and water lightly if the top inch feels dry. Once those seeds start to sprout, they need moisture to continue growing.
After your beans are established and growing well, they need about one inch of water per week. This includes rainfall, so if Mother Nature provides, you can skip the hose.
The best time to water is in the morning. This allows the foliage to dry during the day, which helps prevent fungal diseases. I try to water before 10 a.m. whenever possible.
Water at the base of the plants rather than overhead. Wet leaves are an invitation for disease problems. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation if you have it, or just aim your hose or watering can at the soil.
Deep watering is better than frequent shallow watering. When you water, make sure the moisture penetrates at least six inches into the soil. This encourages deeper root growth and creates stronger, more drought-resistant plants.
You can check soil moisture by sticking your finger into the soil near your plants. If it's dry past the first inch or two, it's time to water. If it's still moist, wait another day.
Pay special attention to watering when your beans are flowering and setting pods. This is their most critical time for moisture. Stress during this period can cause flowers to drop or pods to develop poorly.
In fall, you might find that you need to water less frequently than in summer because cooler temperatures mean less evaporation. Don't water on autopilot – always check the soil first.
Mulching around your bean plants helps retain soil moisture and reduces how often you need to water. A two-inch layer of straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings works wonderfully.
Here's some good news: beans are light feeders compared to many garden vegetables. In fact, they're nitrogen-fixing plants, which means they actually improve your soil by adding nitrogen as they grow.
If you've prepared your soil with compost before planting, your beans probably won't need any additional fertilizer at all. Beans grow beautifully in average soil without extra feeding.
Too much nitrogen fertilizer actually causes problems with beans. It makes them produce lots of leafy growth at the expense of pods. You'll have big, beautiful plants with very few beans to harvest.
If your soil is poor or you didn't add compost before planting, you can give your beans a light feeding when they start flowering. Use a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10, but apply it at half the recommended rate.
I prefer using organic fertilizers for my beans. A side dressing of compost or well-rotted manure works wonderfully. Just sprinkle it around the base of the plants and water it in.
Another option is to use a liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply it every two to three weeks if your plants look pale or aren't growing vigorously.
Watch your plants for signs of nutrient deficiency. Yellowing leaves might indicate a need for nitrogen, though remember that lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures.
Phosphorus helps with root development and flower production. If your beans are slow to flower, a fertilizer with a higher middle number (like 5-10-5) can help, but again, use it sparingly.
Taking care of bush beans is refreshingly simple. Once they're established, they pretty much take care of themselves. Your main jobs are keeping weeds under control and watching for any problems.
Weeding is important, especially when plants are young. Weeds compete for water and nutrients, and they can harbor pests. Pull weeds by hand or use a hoe, but be careful not to disturb the shallow bean roots.
That mulch I mentioned earlier does double duty by suppressing weeds. Once your bean plants are about six inches tall, add a layer of mulch around them. This is one of the best things you can do for your fall bean crop.
Bush beans don't need staking or support, which is one reason they're so easy to grow bush beans compared to pole varieties. They stand up on their own and form neat, compact bushes.
Avoid working around your bean plants when they're wet from dew or rain. This is when diseases spread most easily. Wait until the foliage is completely dry before you walk through the bean patch.
Fall weather can be unpredictable. If an early cold snap threatens, be ready to cover your plants with row covers or old sheets. Beans are sensitive to frost and will die if temperatures drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
Keep an eye out for pests, though fall plantings typically have fewer pest problems than spring plantings. The main culprits are Mexican bean beetles, aphids, and sometimes Japanese beetles if they're still active.
If you spot pests, hand-picking works well for larger insects like beetles. For aphids, a strong spray of water often dislodges them. Organic insecticidal soap is effective if you need something stronger.
This is the fun part – harvesting your beans! Bush beans are typically ready to pick about 50-60 days after planting, depending on the variety. You'll know they're ready when the pods are firm, crisp, and about as thick as a pencil.
The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day. The beans are crisper and more flavorful at this time. I grab my basket and head out right after breakfast.
To pick beans, hold the stem with one hand and gently pull the pod with the other. If you just yank on the pod, you might damage the plant or pull it up by the roots.
Harvest regularly – every two to three days during peak production. The more you pick, the more the plant produces. If you let pods mature fully on the plant, it signals the plant to stop producing new flowers and pods.
Look for pods that are smooth and haven't developed large bumps where the seeds are forming. Once you can see the bean seeds bulging through the pod, they're past their prime for fresh eating, though they're still fine for cooking.
A single bush bean plant can produce a handful of pods at each harvest. When you grow bush beans in the fall garden with multiple plants, you'll quickly have more than enough for fresh eating, with plenty left over for preserving.
Fresh garden beans are delicious simply steamed or boiled until tender-crisp, then tossed with butter and salt. There's no comparison to store-bought beans. The flavor is sweeter, the texture is better, and you'll wonder why you ever bought beans from the grocery store.
If you have more beans than you can eat fresh, don't worry – they preserve beautifully. You can freeze them by blanching for three minutes in boiling water, plunging them into ice water, draining, and packing into freezer bags. They'll keep for up to a year in the freezer. Canning is another option if you have a pressure canner, and pickled beans are another option. You can also share your abundance with neighbors and friends, which is one of the joys of gardening and a great way to spread the love of homegrown vegetables.
Good morning. I woke up late because I had another sort of rough night. For the first time in eight days, I had a neuropathy episode in my left foot. It lasted for about 30 minutes, even after putting on that Mama Bear Oasis cream with magnesium. As I have mentioned before, I started using that Epsom salt lotion and it kept all neuropathy at bay until last night.
I made bacon and eggs with sourdough toast for breakfast. I need to finish getting ready and get over to work to start on orders. I hope you enjoy this week's article on how to grow bush beans in the fall. This is the one crop we grow every fall and love picking and eating.
Today, we had just one set of customers in the store. We counted and packed a lot of seeds. I got most of the orders out and received several bills in the mail. That's always fun, right? Ha!
Good morning. I have been tidying up as David has some new maid service coming this morning. I finally made a delicious breakfast--a deconstructed omelet with ham, mushrooms, spinach, and cheddar cheese.
We have outdoor workers cleaning up the back and our seed helper is here. I need to get out and start working.
The joke is on me because the maid service was supposed to get here at 10am but it is now 10:32am and they never showed. Ha ha. If I knew who it was supposed to be, I would call but I have no information...
It is very humid this morning. The air has been getting warmer and it is cooling to the 70s instead of the 60s again.
The time is 11:15am and still no maids. David has been calling and texting and not getting any response. This service is supposed to be out of Big Foot. Other services we've made appointments with have ghosted us as well. I have no idea why. We pay and we tip so what on earth is going on?
Also, David has been trying for three days to make an appointment to see the podiatrist but they never answer. He leaves messages but they never call back. He just left a message saying he never gets a call back so he will now look for a new podiatrist. It is ridiculous.
I went through this same crap several weeks ago when trying to make three appointments with our eye doctor that we have used now for six years. All I got on Friday, Saturday, and Monday was an answering machine that said they were out to lunch no matter what time of day I called. I finally called again late that Monday and the doctor himself answered and scheduled our appointments. I think we will go elsewhere next year. It really isn't worth all of the hassle.
Return from Grow Bush Beans to Year Seven Of Farm Life
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