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Grow Dry Beans

Learn how to grow dry beans with me this week from planting the seeds to harvesting them for later eating.

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Grow Dry Beans - 2/16-2/22/2026

You don’t need a big farm to grow your own protein. You can grow dry beans right in your backyard garden, and you’ll be surprised how much food a small patch can produce.

I’m talking about the kind of beans you let dry down on the plant—pinto, black, navy, kidney, cannellini, cranberry, and more. These are the beans you cook from dry in soups, chili, burritos, and rice bowls.

And yes—beans really can replace meat in a meal when meat prices get too high. They’re filling, budget-friendly, and they bring a lot of protein and fiber to the table.

In this guide, I’ll show you **How to grow dry beans in the backyard garden** in a simple, step-by-step way. We’ll cover where to plant, when to plant, how to plant for spring and fall, and how to harvest and store your crop.

I’ll keep it practical, because that’s how I learned. The first time I grew dry beans, I planted them like green beans and picked them too early—tasty, but not what I meant to do. Once I learned to wait for the pods to dry, it clicked.

Here’s how this article is laid out: it’s a **7-part guide** you can follow from planning to storage. If you’re new to beans, you’ll feel confident by the end.

Grow Dry Beans - Why?

Dry beans are a healthy protein substitute for meals, and they also work great alongside meat—like in chili, taco meat blends, or hearty soups.

They also store well. A jar of homegrown beans on the shelf feels like a little bit of food security you made yourself.

Dry beans are also “garden friendly.” They don’t need fancy soil amendments, and because they’re legumes, they help support healthy soil over time.

To me, the biggest win is flexibility. If you grow a few types, you can cook different meals all winter without getting bored.

Grow Dry Beans - Pole Or Bean?

Dry beans come in two main growth styles: bush beans and pole beans.

Bush beans stay compact, usually 1–2 feet tall. They’re easier in small gardens, and they tend to ripen around the same time, which makes harvest simple.

Pole beans climb and need a trellis or fence. They can yield a lot in a small footprint, but they usually mature over a longer period.

If you want “plant once, harvest mostly at once,” pick bush types. If you like harvesting over time and don’t mind building support, go with pole types.

Also check the “days to maturity” on the seed packet. For dry beans, you’re usually looking at something like 85–110 days, depending on the variety and your weather.

A quick tip from my own garden: bush beans are easier when you’re learning, because you can watch the whole patch dry down together and harvest in one big batch.

Grow Dry Beans - Where Should You Plant?

Pick a spot with full sun—at least 6 hours a day, and 8 is even better.

Beans like soil that drains well. If your soil stays soggy, seeds can rot, and plants can struggle.

You don’t need super rich soil. In fact, too much nitrogen can make plants grow lots of leaves but fewer pods.

If you want to prep the bed, keep it simple:
- Loosen the top 6–8 inches
- Remove rocks and weeds
- Add a light layer of compost if your soil is very poor

Try to avoid windy corners if you’re growing pole beans on a trellis. I learned this the hard way after a summer storm leaned my whole bean teepee sideways.

If you rotate crops, don’t plant beans in the same spot every year. Rotating helps reduce disease and pest buildup.

Grow Dry Beans - How To Plant Dry Beans

Planting dry beans is easy once the soil is warm and you’re past frost risk.

Here’s the basic planting plan most backyard gardeners use:
- Plant seeds about 1 inch deep
- Space bush beans about 3–6 inches apart
- Space pole beans about 4–6 inches apart along a trellis
- Leave 18–24 inches between rows (or more if you like room to walk)

Water after planting, then keep the soil lightly moist until seedlings come up. After that, water deeply when the soil starts to dry out.

If you’re using supports for pole beans, set them up before or right after planting. It’s much harder once the beans are already growing.

Mulch can help hold moisture and block weeds, but wait until the soil has warmed up. Cold, wet mulch too early can slow germination.

One more tip I wish someone told me earlier: don’t soak bean seeds overnight like some other seeds. In many gardens it’s fine, but it can also increase cracking or rotting in cool soils. Warm soil and steady moisture work better.

Grow Dry Beans - Spring Planting

Spring is the easiest season for dry beans in most places, as long as you wait for warmth.

Beans hate cold. Plant them after your last frost date, when the soil feels warm to your hand and nights aren’t chilly.

A practical backyard timing rule: if you’re planting tomatoes, your garden is usually warm enough for beans soon after (or around the same time), depending on your area.

For spring planting, you can do one main sowing, or you can plant in two rounds about 2 weeks apart. That spreads out harvest risk in case weather turns weird.

Once the plants start flowering, water becomes more important. Dry stress during flowering can reduce pod set.

But don’t overdo it. Wet leaves plus warm weather can invite disease. Water the soil, not the leaves, when you can.

As pods form, resist the urge to pick them. For dry beans, your goal is to let pods mature fully and dry down.

Grow Dry Beans - Fall Planting

If your summers are very hot, or if you want a second round, you can plant dry beans for fall—if your frost timing allows it.

The key is counting backwards. Take the days to maturity on the packet and add a couple weeks for slower fall growth, then make sure you still finish before your average first frost.

In many areas, fall beans do best when planted in mid-to-late summer, after the worst heat has passed but with enough time left to mature.

Fall planting can actually be easier in one way: fewer spring weeds. But you still need to keep the bed weeded while plants are small.

Hot soil can dry fast in late summer, so water consistently during germination. Once seedlings are established, you can back off to deeper watering.

If early frost threatens and pods aren’t fully dry, you can pull the whole plant and hang it somewhere dry and airy, like a garage or shed, to finish drying.

Fall humidity can be tricky. Good airflow matters, especially as pods dry. Space plants well and don’t let them turn into a tangled jungle.

Grow Dry Beans - Care

Dry beans are low-maintenance, but a little attention goes a long way.

Weeding early is the big job. After plants fill in, they shade the soil and compete better on their own.

Watch for common problems like chewed leaves when plants are tiny, or flowers dropping during extreme heat. Most of the time, beans bounce back once conditions improve.

Grow Dry Beans - Harvesting

Harvest time is when pods look dry and papery, and the seeds inside feel hard. Many pods will rattle when you shake them.

If rain is coming and your pods are mostly dry, you can harvest plants early to protect the crop. Pull the whole plant and let it finish drying under cover.

To shell beans, you can do it by hand into a bucket, or you can put dry pods in a clean pillowcase and gently stomp them to break pods open. Then winnow by pouring beans between containers in a light breeze.

Grow Dry Beans - Storage

Before you store dry beans, make sure they are fully dry. If they’re even a little soft, they can mold in storage.

A simple home test: bite a bean. It should be very hard and not dent easily. Another test is hitting a bean with a hammer—fully dry beans tend to shatter instead of squish.

For storage, use jars with tight lids, food-grade buckets, or sturdy containers that keep out moisture and bugs. Label the variety and the year.

Keep your beans in a cool, dry, dark spot. Heat and light can reduce quality over time.

Grow Dry Beans - Save Bean Seeds

Now for one of the most satisfying parts: you can save bean seeds  easily. Choose the healthiest plants, let the pods dry fully, and store those seeds separately in a labeled container.

Just remember: if you grew more than one bean variety close together, some types may cross (it’s not common in many garden situations, but it can happen). If you want true-to-type seed, growing one variety or separating them helps.

When you cook your homegrown beans, you’ll notice the payoff: strong flavor, creamy texture, and that deep comfort-food feeling—especially in chili, soups, and rice dishes where beans can replace some or all of the meat.

If you want a simple win this year, plant a short row and see what happens. Once you learn how to grow dry beans in the backyard garden, you’ll always have an affordable, healthy protein option waiting on your shelf.

Monday, February 16, 2026

Good morning. It is 44° out this morning. I did not expect it to go that cold again but here we are. I have about 300 orders to get filled. Thank you all so much!

Happy President's Day! Of course, there is no mail today which will make your seeds arrive one day later than usual.

I have been pulling seeds. Matt has been making envelopes and David has been doing the special counts. All of us are working to get your orders out in a timely fashion.

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Tuesday, February 17, 2026

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Wednesday, February 18, 2026

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Thursday, February 19, 2026

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Friday, February 20, 2026

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Saturday, February 21, 2026

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Sunday, February 22, 2026

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Return from Grow Dry Beans to Year 7 Of Farm Life

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Learn how to grow dry beans with me this week from planting the seeds to harvesting them for later eating. Onion Starts
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